This morning before sunrise in the garden courtyards of the Quinta Real Hotel in Guadalajara, Mexico, a clutch of gossiping birds burst into chattering song. Opening the sliding glass door of our suite to hear them more clearly, I spied the gibbous moon peeking down at me from between drooping palms fronds, black against the starry night sky.

                     The balcony of our suite with a view of the court yard, note the archangel sculpture
 
I threw on some clothes and headed out in search of coffee, traversing the front courtyard still shrouded in night shadows. The dining terrace was already set up with an elaborate buffet table and although no one was about, I could hear gentle voices speaking in lilting Spanish from the kitchen. As I passed by the buffet I caught the enticing smell of tropical fruit, the stinging clean scent of fresh sliced pineapple and the slight earthy muskiness of soft papaya. I love papaya and it was all I can do to resist heaping a plate right away. But no, I must write and tell you about this leg of our journey here in the state of Jalisco before we take off for Morelia later this afternoon.

                                                           The drooping fronds of the Royal Palm.



The Herradura tequila company, in recognition of the virtual river of that heavenly spirit, tequila, which the Casa Romero has been pouring down the thirsty gullets of proper Bostonians for the last 36 years, has brought us here to Guadalajara for a conference and tour of their impressive Hacienda. Herradura has recently been purchased by the parent company, Brown – Forman who are serious competitors in the international liquor market. I am learning, from the men at the conference that the liquor industry is one shark-infested whirlpool churning with rapacious aggression. Being also inexorably connected to the hospitality industry, the B & H booze kings are generous hosts. We are enjoying the rich comforts of the Quinta Real Hotel here in Guadalajara in a suite with two balconies protected by wrought iron railings that look out on a spacious court yard.

                              A very gay archangel guarding the entrance lobby of the Quinta Real Hotel
 
The staff here is composed of a small army of friendly, bilingual men and women who are at our beck and call with professional dignity that is efficient and cheerful. I really get the idea that they are happy we’re here. Every night on our pillows scrumptious chocolate truffles magically appear along with a neatly printed “buenas noches” note with quotes from venerable folks. Last night's message was from Pablo Picasso, who apparently uttered the useful observation, “Inspiration exists, but it must find you working.” As you can see from this little note I have taken Pablo’s advise to heart and am scribbling away, albeit electronically, to you.